These Victorian rose-cut diamond earrings, most probably of English provenance, are crafted in 12ct yellow gold, weigh exactly 4g and measure 18mm long, 13mm wide and 5mm deep. The '12ct' gold purity was legalized in Europe in 1854 together with '15ct' gold, both of which were declared impermissible as of 1932 in favor of 14k gold which was stamped '585' in Europe. Designed as exquisite rosettes, one of the few designs which remained in vogue throughout the entire Victorian era in which fashion trends changed with each decade, these captivating earrings are centered each with a pique rose-cut diamond measuring 4.88mm long and 3.64mm wide.
The latter is surrounded by a cluster of eight pique rose-cut diamonds of approximately 3mm in diameter, surmounted by two matching grade rose-cut diamonds constituting the ear-studs. Exposed atop ornately pierced galleries, these refined Victorian rosette rose-cut diamond earrings feature lever-back clasps designed exclusively for pierced ears.
Rose-cut diamonds belong to the ‘antique’ family of diamonds introduced as early as the 1500’s. By mid-16th century, various forms of the rose-cut were developed, derived from the preceding types of cuts. A flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets constitute the basic characteristics of rose-cut diamonds the name of which derives from a visible resemblance to the petals of a rose bud. Although mostly circular in outline, other variations such as the oval-shaped 'briolette’, the hexagonal ‘Antwerp rose’ and the ‘double Dutch rose’ have also been in use and are also considered to be rose-cuts. Prior to old mine-cut, rose-cut diamonds were cut flat on the underside, as referred to above, the table alone, domed with triangular facets. To give life to these stones, a hollow yellow gold cup was constructed, often with triangular ‘facets’, surfaced with pressed foil. The rim of the cup became a bezel and the diamond was mounted over the cup, allowing the light to shine down through the diamond, reflect off the foiled triangles and back out, giving the impression of a well-cut sparkling gem as we know today. Earlier diamonds, including rose-cuts, were cut manually until the early 1900’s, involving a laborious and time-consuming process. Rose-cut diamonds have gradually become scarce and can only be found in antique jewelry. They have been growing rarer by the decade due to the fact that many antique diamonds have been re-cut to suit more modern proportions, resulting in escalating demand.
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