This Victorian fob chain necklace with a carnelian intaglio crafted in 15ct yellow gold is most likely of English origin, weighs 36.3g and measures 21.5 inches long with a 3mm wide chain. This authentic 34mm long fob pendant exposes a rectangular carnelian intaglio measuring 23.23mm long and 18.52mm wide, graded 'brick' color, mounted within a delicately reeded yellow gold frame. The carnelian tablet intaglio bears a family crest, most probably serving as a seal. The apex of the fob consists of skillfully crafted and finely ridged dual-sided arcade shaped profiles with gracefully scrolled finials on either side. The supporting fob chain comprises highly ornate interlocking links composed of orbicular corded wire ringlet trios and polished gold ovular links, inversely combined. A decoratively ridged, orbicular bale of pronounced width surmounts the intriguing ‘arcade’ while the integrated chain is secured with the original screw-on clasp, functional depiction of which may be viewed below.
You may be interested to note that 15ct gold purity was legalized in England in 1854, as was 12ct gold, both of which were declared not permissible as of 1932 in favor of 14k gold which was stamped '585' in Europe.
Considered an important part of the ritual of carrying a pocket watch, fobs were indispensable accessories throughout the Victorian era. They were considered part of the ‘Albert Chain’ named in memory of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert who never appeared in morning attire without a watch chain. Similar chains were worn by Victorian ladies, referred to as ‘Albertina Chains’ which were lighter, longer and more delicate in design to suit the feminine gender, worn either with ladies' lapel watches or simply as chain necklaces. The Victorian Albert Chain maintained its popularity well into the Edwardian era and was gradually modified into a ‘Double Albert Chain’ with great appeal for young Edwardian gentlemen. The new version had a fob on one end of the chain and a Vesta case on the other, the latter being a small airtight box or container, usually made of silver but occasionally gold, designed to hold the dangerous phosphorus matches then used to light cigars! Although no longer a functional accessory or an important part of the pocket watch ritual, authentic fob chains continue to be highly prized and in great demand, worn as classic necklaces and either collected for their antiquity, or since World War I, for their sentimental significance. It was a tradition during such times for husbands and boyfriends to leave their fob chains on English soil with their wives and sweethearts for safekeeping where wives and girlfriends expressed their love by wearing them around their neck.
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